Untamed Beauty: Harvesting Wild Oysters in Maine
In Maine, wild oysters grow in the cold, nutrient-rich waters of the Gulf of Maine estuaries au natural. Known as “wilds,” these bivalves flourish on the bottom of the seafloor, and their fluted edges are etched by the natural ebb and flow of the tides. Certain towns allow individuals to purchase recreational licenses to harvest wild oysters, and other shellfish, for a period of one year.
One of my favorite parts about exploring oyster farms is the natural treasures I find in the water. These beauties are wild oysters that grow in the cold, nutrient-rich waters of the Gulf of Maine au natural. Affectionately known as “wilds,” these bivalves flourish on the bottom of the seafloor, and their lovely fluted edges are carefully etched by the natural ebb and flow of the tides. Uncaged, unrestricted, their beauty is something crafted by nature itself.
So. Where do these “wilds” come from?
There are two sources of origin.
Theory One: Many present-day wild oysters are ancestors of bivalves from ancient times, when native oysters were much more abundant in Maine, and the rest of the coastal United States.
Thousands of years ago, following the melting of the Laurentide Ice Sheet that flowed southeast across Maine, the Gulf of Maine was much warmer. Oysters that had traditionally spawned in more temperate climates, such as the modern day North Carolina/Virginia/Maryland areas, expanded their way North, to the warming Maine waters. In fact, if you travel throughout the Damariscotta Region, you can see large shell middens — enormous heaps of oyster shells discarded by Native Americans, who feasted on the Damariscotta’s wild oysters over 2,200 years ago. It is thought present day “wilds” are the generational ancestors of these historic wilds.
Theory Two: Other populations of “wilds” are actually the result of the spawning of aquaculture oysters from nearby farms. Because of cold water temperatures, oysters do not always spawn in Maine waters. However, due to global warming resulting in higher water temperatures, cultured oysters have begun to reproduce on their own, leading to self-sustaining populations. In Maine, Diploid oysters will spontaneously spawn when water temperatures reach roughly 65°F. Thus, more and more oyster farmers who use diploid (as opposed to triploid) oysters have reported an increase in “natural” spawning of their farmed oysters to create a nearby population of wild oysters.
Can anyone harvest these lovely wilds?
Well, not exactly. In Maine, there are two ways to obtain the necessary licensure to harvest wild oysters, and other shellfish, from razor clams to quahogs. First, those who hold a Commercial Shellfish License issued by the DMR can harvest wild oysters.
Second, residents, or those meeting the domiciliary statutory requirements, have the ability to apply for a Recreational License from local municipalities. Participating towns have a Shellfish Conservation Committee, which oversees the shellfish conservation program for the municipality, insuring the protection and optimum utilization of shellfish resources within the Town's limits. The committee works with the Department of Marine Resources to establish the annual number of harvesting licenses, recommend municipal conservation closures and openings, and review annually the status of shellfish resource.
Each year on June 1st, certain towns, such as Newcastle and Damariscotta, have available for purchase a certain allotment of Commercial and Recreational Shellfish Licenses. The number of licenses available for purchase each year varies. Before March 1st of each year, the respective Shellfish Conservation Committees, in consultation with the DMR Area Biologist, determine whether limiting commercial and/or recreational licenses is an appropriate conservation method for the upcoming licensure period. (§XIV.A). The Committee then makes a recommendation to the DMR Commissioner of the number of licenses that should be allocated each year in that particular municipality. (§XIV.B).
These licenses are good for 1 year, and allow municipal shellfish license holders the ability to harvest shellfish within certain areas within the participating towns through midnight on May 31. It is important to note that the DMR, and many towns, have Vibrio Bacteria Control Plans, which oftentimes close recreational (and sometimes commercial harvesting) for portions of the year due to warming water temperatures and the possibility of vibrio bacteria in the water. Currently in Maine, the Vibrio Control Plan is in effect from May 1st through October 31st in certain designated estuaries.
During the summer months, if you are enjoying “wild” oysters at a raw bar, these oysters likely came from an individual with a commercial harvesting license and a certified shellfish dealer in compliance with the DMR regulations pertaining to the Vibrio Bacteria Control Plan. (Department of Marine Resources, Vibrio parahaemolyticus Control Plan, Section 115.05)
Further Reading on the Harvesting of Wild Oysters in Maine