Are you an oyster enthusiast crafting a bivalve-centic holiday, and in search of exploring the natural splendor of the Downeast Region of Maine? Perhaps you are looking to spend a weekend at an alluring seaside town, while devouring endless seafood bounty, fresh from the neighboring waters. Or maybe you are an outdoor enthusiast who wants to explore the mythological magnificence that is Acadia National Park.

Mount Desert Island (or “MDI” as we call it in Maine) has always had a special place in both my personal and aquaculture histories—from my first nights in Maine sleeping aboard sailboats in the fog in Southwestern Harbor, to harvesting oysters under the moonlight with my friends at Mount Desert Island Oyster Company. If you are journeying down the Maine Oyster Trail, a stop in the MDI/Acadia Region is a must for any oyster enthusiast and outdoor adventurer alike.

A Little Background On MDI

MDI is the third largest island in the continental U.S. encompassing 108 square miles. Its dramatic beauty stems from the seventeen mountains that rise from the sea, and the pine trees that soar toward the heavens. The island itself is a topographical wonderland—a spigot of earth hoisted up from the seas, and hewn down by glaciers so that a deep schism of saltwater runs up its belly.

It seems fitting that MDI was first called “Eden” when founded in 1796. In 1921, the island was renamed for the sandbar which had accumulated in the bay. A rich history runs through the waters and echoes across the weather-worn cliff sides of the island; even the colorful Bed & Breakfasts and neighborhood pubs have fascinating histories dating back hundreds of years. The first known inhabitants of the island were members of the Wabanaki Indian Tribe - proof of their encampments dating back over 6,000 years is evidenced, almost cinematically, by heaps of oyster shells found within Acadia. MDI has been a haven for artists and journalists, who have glorified the island with their words and brushstrokes.

MDI is home to four seaside towns. Bar Harbor is the best known and largest town located in the northeast section of island, and is the gateway to Acadia National Park, one of the most scenic and popular National Parks in the United States. The town of Mount Desert encompasses the villages of Northeast Harbor, Otter Creek, and Seal Harbor to the south, and the town of Southwest Harbor lines the southern tip of the island and is home to the beloved Dysarts Marina, where I spent my first days in Maine. Finally, the town of Tremont encompasses the village of Bass Harbor, home to one of the most lucrative lobster-producing ports in the state, as well as the architecturally stunning Bass Head Lighthouse. There are several different ways you can get to MDI depending on from where you’re traveling. See the bottom of this post for different ways you can travel to MDI.

For purposes of this guide, oyster farms and experiences will be geographically contained within Frenchman’s Bay and Winter Harbor, to the east to Swan’s Island in the west. Oyster farms, restaurants, and experience outside those perimeters will be covered by additional Rise & Brine installments.

The Oyster Scene

MDI and the Acadia Region of Downeast Maine is home to some of the most unique oyster farms throughout Maine. With over twenty local farms, oysters hailing from the Downeast region are sumptuously briny with a balance of a savory umami earthiness, due to the high salinity and rich sedimentary make-up of the waters. MDI is a geological wonderland, its ruggedness shaped over 30,000 years ago by glacial movement that carved deep gorges where shallow valleys had been, and pressed fertile sediment into the surrounding ocean, which now serves as a haven for oysters and other shellfish. In fact, the waters surrounding MDI are so nutrient-rich, that the rocky shoreline is replete with gorgeously colorful tide pools inhabited by sea stars, dog whelks, blue mussels, sea cucumbers, rockweed, and other creatures and plants.

List of Local Oyster Farms:

Here is my list of oyster farmers growing oysters in the waters surrounding MDI:

  • Brion Kane, oyster grower

  • Victor Doyle, oyster grower

  • Jesse Gilley, oyster grower

  • Toby Stephenson, oyster grower

  • Karen Zimmerman, oyster grower

  • Jason Matthews, oyster grower (Swan Island)

  • Lincoln Johnson, oyster grower (Swan Island)

  • Joshua Joyce and Jason Joyce: Growers of Burnt Coast Oysters (Swan Island)

  • Michael Savoy, oyster grower (Winter Harbor, Schoodic Peninsula)

  • Thomas Hope, oyster grower (Winter Harbor Schoodic Peninsula)

For information about each farm, including contact information for the farmers, the locations of the farms, and information as to how the oysters are grown, click on the oyster icon on my Rise & Brine map, above.

Buying Local Oysters Direct from the Farm:

There is nothing quite as wonderful as purchasing oysters directly from an oyster farmer on the coast of Maine. There is something special about grasping the mesh back containing the deliciously briny bivalves, their shells clanking together, begging you to shuck them and to consume their delicious morsels. Buying direct from oyster farmers is a great way to support Maine’s local sustainable seafood industry — it allows you, the consumer, to build a personal connection with the hardworking farmer who toils for three years to carefully nurture those oysters. Furthermore, purchasing directly from a farmer puts the money squarely into the hands of the farmer, and also saves you some cash! Most oyster farmers sell their oysters for $1.00-$2.00/each, which is hard to beat when many area restaurants charge upwards of $3.00 per oyster.

Looking for a spot to purchase oysters directly from a farmer in the MDI Downeast Region? The following farms have direct-to-consumer sales:

If you are looking for a market that sells oysters and other fresh local seafood, check out Trenton Bridge Lobster Pound, located just before the bridge across the Mount Desert Island Narrows from mainland Maine to MDI, or Peekytoe Provisions, located in downtown Bar Harbor.

I’d Love to Tour an Oyster Farm! Where Do I Go?

Touring an oyster farm is an experience unlike any other. Most people visiting oyster farms for the first time are amazed to see firsthand how oysters are actually grown. From longlines strewn across the waves, each holding bags housing hundreds of precious bivalves, touring an oyster farm will give you a newfound appreciation for the briny oysters you slurp. Many oyster farms in Maine are operated on a small-scale basis (“boutique,” as I like to call them), and are visible from the shorelines. The great thing about smaller farms is that many farmers are willing to take curious oyster lovers on a tour of their farm by way of their work skiffs. Many farmers are eager to explain the process of growing oysters to those who are bivalve-curious.

Although not specifically advertised, farmers in the Downeast Region who can be contacted to inquire whether they have the accommodations to offer a tour of their oyster farm include:

Where is an instagram-worthy spot to slurp these oysters?

Slurping oysters somewhere scenic is one of my all-time favorite pastimes. Whether its enjoying a sunset and a dozen briny bivalves, or trying out your food photography skills as you document your oyster adventures, the Acadia region is replete with places to enjoy your oysters. Some of my favorite spots to slurp oysters outside in Downeast Maine include:

  • Schooner Head Overlook: Visiting Schooner Head at low tide is a must if you are visiting Acadia National Park. From rocky coastlines, to soaring pines, to an underwater sea cave accessible only at low tide, this spot is a geological wonder. The overlook provides views of Egg Rock Lighthouse on Egg Rock, a small island two miles from shore. In the late 1800s, people traveled out to it to collect bird eggs to eat and feathers to sell to the fashion industry. At low tide, you’ll find a handful of adventurers exploring the tide pools, reading novels on the sun-soaked rocks, or shucking oysters while overlooking the water.

  • Bass Harbor Lighthouse: There is nothing more scenic to me than shucking oysters on a cliffside, while watching the sunlight paint the face of a lighthouse in the distance. I personally love getting “shell shots” of oyster shells in the foreground, with an out-of-focus lighthouse in the background. Scenic and picturesque, Bass Harbor should be up on your list of places to take your bivalves.

  • The Ocean Path at Acadia: Breathe in the salty sea air as you stroll along the rocky rose granite Acadia coastline. This path delivers stellar ocean views, a thundering inlet, and dramatic cliffs perfect for a scenic bivalve picnic.

  • The Happy Clam Shack: Whether you are looking for a spot to snack on some oysters or not, a photo in front of the Happy Clam Shack is a must. With colorful lobster buoys painting the exterior of this little clam shack, a shot at this location is an absolute must.

Where To Stay








  • For the Outdoor Enthusiast: Lamoine State Park and Acadia Park

With so much natural beauty, who wouldn’t want to fully immerse themselves to the pristine splendor of the Acadia Region? Both Bar Harbor, and the nearby town of Lamoine, located just across the Mount Desert Narrows, are replete with camping options.

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Lamoine State Park

My favorite place to camp in the Acadia Region of Maine is easily Lamoine State Park. Secluded from the swarms of summer tourists packed in like sardines at MDI campsites, Lamoine offers scenic campground options that personify Downeast perfection. Lamoine Beach is a splendid local swimming spot that spans 2,740 yards long, and provides gorgeous views of MDI, and the mountains of Acadia National Park. The crystal clear waters allow marine enthusiasts to gaze into the ecosystems below – from giant terracotta-colored starfish, to wild purple mussel beds, to the occasional lion’s mane jellyfish bobbing in the waves.

Looking to take your Downeast camping to the next level? One of my favorite things to do is to rent a the private Tentrr site located in Lamoine State Park, just a few steps from the waterfront! This Tentrr site comes complete with a canvas tent, two bunk-bed style queen beds, a wood stove, fire pit, and outdoor dining accommodations. There is nothing like cooking a delicious meal with fresh local seafood, walking down to the water for a refreshing dip, grilling s’mores by your own private fire pit, and then crawling into bed, exhausted, into your own comfortable dome tent.

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Camping in Acadia National Park

Perhaps you are searching for a peaceful camping retreat right within the expansive natural confines of Acadia. Campgrounds are situated throughout the park – one in the main part of the park in Bar Harbor, another in Southwest Harbor and one on the Schoodic Peninsula, about an hour from Bar Harbor. One more campground is accessible only by boat on the island of Isle au Haut. Below are links to these popular Acadia campsites:

  • Blackwoods Campground: During the main season from May 1-Oct. 31, Blackwoods welcomes tents and recreational vehicles, including pop-ups, vehicle campers, and RVs up to 35-feet long and 11'8" tall at the 306 sites. The campground has restrooms with running water and showers are available nearby. 

  • Seawall Campground: A 25-minute drive from Bar Harbor, this campground is open May through September with many walk-in/drive-up tent sites, as well as sites for campers and RV hook-ups. Restrooms with running water are available.

  • Schoodic Woods Campground: Located on the Schoodic Peninsula, about an hour from Bar Harbor by car or ferry ride, these 203 wooded campsites for tent camping and RV's are open late May through Columbus Day. Restrooms with running water are available.

** Due to COVID-19, many of these Acadia Campgrounds are unfortunately closed for the 2020 season.

  • For the Bed and Breakfast Lover: The Asticou Inn or the primrose

As beautiful as it is sleeping underneath a blanket of stars to sounds of the ocean waves gently lapping in the distance, some of us (like my lovely mother) prefer more luxurious sheltering. When I feel like being pampered in the Acadia Region, these are two of my favorite picks!

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The Asticou Inn

Overlooking the picturesque blue waters of Northeast Harbor, Maine, the Asticou Inn invokes the charm of a bygone area. Built in 1854, the Inn’s property beckons guests to relax with a peaceful stroll through the vibrant flower gardens, a dip in the property’s swimming pool, and delectable meals at the Inn’s on-site restaurant. If you’re lucky, you’ll have the pleasure of meeting Joanna Fogg from Bar Harbor Oyster Company as she shucks some of her delicious Bar Harbor Blondes on the terrace overlooking the Harbor.

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The Primrose Inn

Constructed in 1978, but re-imagined in 2020 with tasteful sensibility, the Primrose Inn is the embodiment of Maine cottage-style living. Located in the heart of downtown Bar Harbor, guests are just a few paces from the town’s vibrant restaurant and shopping scene. Newly remodeled for the 2020 season, a stay at the Primrose Inn will have you vigorously snapping photographs of the gorgeously nautical interior to send to friends back home.

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  • For the wild child: air bnb a sailboat in southwest harbor

The first night I ever spent in Maine was aboard the sailboat Deep Peace, harbored in the Southwestern Marina on the southern portion of MDI. A deep rolling fog had set in, and my cousin, Sarah, and I, boarded the sailboat with Dawn and Adam, a couple who traveled the world together on their sailboat. Sarah and I spent an evening in the fog, sipping home brewed tea, and chatting long into the night with Dawn and Adam about their travels, which felt as though they stretched lifetimes. It was an experience that I will never forget, and was hugely instrumental in how I have crafted my life in the state since becoming a Maine resident. I highly recommend perusing Air BNB for a similar experience.

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Where To Dine

If you’re traveling to the Downeast Region, exploring the local seafood options is a must. Not only is the bounty of the sea of unparalleled quality, but dining at local spots helps support the numerous hardworking men and women who work on the water in that region. As an oyster lover exploring MDI, you will have no problem finding an abundance of restaurants that shuck and serve fresh, briny bivalves.

Breakfast is a Must

On days when I’m hiking in Acadia, I like to do a quick grab-and-go breakfast from Choco-Latte Café, which usually consists of an avocado and egg sandwich on a homemade croissant and a cup of fresh organic coffee from Acadia Coffee Company. A fiend for chocolate? The spot has an endless selection of chocolate-centric coffee creations. Looking for a scrumptious sit-down breakfast before an afternoon strolling through the shops of Bar Harbor? The ever-classic Jordan’s Restaurant is a must. The Native Maine blueberry pancakes evokes all the feelings of summertime, and the berries’ delicious tang is smoothed by the indulgent local maple syrup drizzled on top.

Instagram-Worthy Seafood Sandwiches for Lunch

Anytime I’m on MDI, it’s essential that I stop by Peekytoe Provisions for lunch. Peekytoe is part-market, part-restaurant, and a year-round spot for seafood soups, creative specials, fresh oysters, and local sustainable seafood. From local crabmeat paninis to fresh halibut sandwiches with baby leek chimichurri, Peekytoe Provisions does not disappoint.

If you’re looking for a more traditional lobster and clam shack that also doubles as one of the most instagrammable spots in Maine, check out the Happy Clam Shack for delicious lobster rolls, clam chowder, and slices of blueberry pie.

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Seafood-Centric Dining Options for Any Vibe

The Acadia region offers several very different vibes for dinner options, depending on your mood. My first night ever in Maine, I sat, engulfed in the fog on the water, scarfing down an indulgent lobster dinner from Beal’s Lobster Pier in Southwest Harbor. Founded in 1932, Beal’s Lobster Pier is a fully operational family-owned working fish and lobster pier. The seafood restaurant opened in 1969, and serves fresh seafood caught in the waters surrounding the pier.

If New England-style fine dining is more your thing, check out Havana, a colorful tapas grill serving deliciously-prepared local meats and fish and boozy Caipirinhas and Periodistas, or Salt and Steel, to snack on the delicious chilled MDI Jonah Crab claws or a bowl of garganelli Frenchman Bay mussels. Both hot spots sling deliciously-fresh oysters throughout the evening.

Want a more farm-to-table option on MDI? Check out Sweet Pea’s Cafe, a gorgeous restaurant offering whimsical views, savory plowman’s platters made with local cured meats, and endless fresh oysters from Western Bay Oyster Company.

If you’re heading out to the Schoodic Peninsula, nicknamed the “Quiet Side” of Acadia, or staying in the Winter Harbor/Birch Harbor area I highly recommend dining at The Pickled Wrinkle to try some local Downeast delicacies. Pickled wrinkles are  large carnivorous sea snails, or whelks, which inhabit areas below the tide line. Lobster fishermen find wrinkles in traps they haul from the ocean floor. Historically, in tough times, wrinkles were relied on to help feed Maine families, and pickling them was a great way to preserve the protein-packed morsels. The restaurant has a fantastic offering of other local seafood, as well as live outdoor music in the summer.

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Boozy Bar Harbor

A night out in Bar Harbor wouldn’t be complete without imbibing at one of the local watering holes. Downeast Maine bars are some of my favorite because they are dark and cozy, have a few coveted seats, fascinating interiors, and a cast of characters who will share endless tales of the seas.

I was introduced to Cottage Street Pub by a lobsterman I met outside of Beal’s Lobster Pier while dining on a misty evening. Somehow, the conversation turned to dive bars revered by locals, and I ended up sipping Prosecco and Absinthe Foam cocktails (yep, you read that right) with a group of lobstermen long into the evening. Equally as charming but with a more beer-centric menu, is the periwinkle-exterior The Barnacle also located in the heart of downtown. The Barnacle also serves oysters, lobster rolls, and homemade paninis, which has the added benefit of coating your stomach as you imbibe foamy beers throughout the night. Finally, if you’re a beer enthusiast, a visit to Atlantic Brewing Company is a must. With beers named after various geographic wonders throughout Acadia, Atlantic Brewing Company boasts something for everyone. As a bonus, the brewery’s Cadillac Mountain Stout is a luxurious creamy Irish-style dry stout that pairs exceptionally well with oysters.   

Where To Explore

Consult any travel guide on Downeast Maine, and Acadia National Park will consistently top the list of places to visit in the region. Acadia National Park possesses the natural beauty of the highest rocky headlands along the Atlantic coastline of the United States, an abundance of habitats, and a rich cultural heritage. At 3.5 million visits a year, it's one of the top 10 most-visited national parks in the United States. Visitors enjoy 27 miles of historic motor roads, 158 miles of hiking trails, and 45 miles of carriage roads.

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The Anemone Sea Cave at Schooner Head Overlook

The Anemone Cave within the underbelly of Schooner Head Overlook is perhaps one of the most enchanting “secret” finds in the Acadia Region. At low tide, the waters give way to a multitude of gorgeous tidal pools, replete with magenta enamel-like algae, and dahlia-like sea anemones. The cave is considered one of the “abandoned” trails of Acadia, and its very existence has been wiped off of all maps, leading to its allure. Here is the guide I use to locate the cave. It’s very important to note that Anemone Cave is a sea cave and can only be entered at low tide.  At high tide the cave is underwater, so check and find out what time low tide is before making the trip. Take the trail to enter the cave from the left, and remember to wear sturdy shoes with good grips!

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The Beehive Cliff Trail

The Beehive is a picturesque peak that overlooks Sand Beach from the northwest. The hike up the Beehive Trail (aka the Beehive Cliffs Trail) is a thrilling Acadia classic, but I recommend tackling this hike early in the day to beat the crowds. This ingenious route heads right up the steep south face of the peak and includes granite steps, iron rungs to climb up, and several handrails for exposed rock scrambling sections. Those without anxiety-induced acrophobia are rewarded with incredible views of Sand Beach, Great Head, and the surrounding area.

·      Total Distance: 1.4 miles

·      Elevation Gain: 488 feet

·      Trail Type: Loop

·      Duration: Around 2 hours (Can depend on crowds)

And if you want to extend your hike, think about adding on Gorham Mountain after you hike the Beehive. Want an even more challenging hike? Check out the Precipice.

3.

Explore the Schoodic Peninsula, the “Quiet Side” of Acadia

Infinitely more secluded, the Schoodic Peninsula encompasses 3,500 additional acres of Acadia National Park, with ferry and bus access to the bulk of it on Mount Desert Island. The Peninsula showcases granite headlands that bear erosional scars of storm waves and flood tides. Although similar in scenic splendor to portions of MDI, the Schoodic Coast is a more secluded area. A six-mile, one-way loop road offers views of lighthouses, seabirds, and forested islands.







4.

Take the Ferry to the Cranberry Isles

The Cranberry Isles are an archipelago of five gorgeous islands lying just south of MDI. The year-round community between Great Cranberry and Little Cranberry, the two larger islands, totals about 100 people, and the islands have a rich maritime history. The islands are accessible via ferry.

Islesford, aka “Little Cranberry Island,” is the most populated of the Cranberry Isles. Once there, explore the Gallery at the Islesford Dock, which exhibits a number of fine art pieces by local artisans, and then grab some delicious Cranberry Oysters and lobster at the Isleford Dock Restaurant. Perched on a 200-year-old coal dock overlooking the harbor, this waterfront restaurant offers delicious food and spectacular views of MDI.

Great Cranberry Island is the largest of the islands, geographically. The island has an abundance of hiking trails with stunning views. While you’re there, check out The Pool, a shallow protected inlet that serves as the site for Cranberry Island Oysters, you may even have the opportunity to see owners Laura and Josh Gray working on their farm!

5.

Sea Kayak the Mount Desert Narrows

Kayaking provides a great way to view the splendor of the MDI coastline, while also having the potential for some great wildlife sightings. With sea kayaking, there are two main companies in town: National Park Sea Kayak Tours and Coastal Kayaking Tours.

I have booked kayaking adventures with both companies, and have found the quality to be similar. Though they do go to different places so keep this in mind when you book. National Park Tours kayaks the western side of MDI, through Western Bay and Blue Hill Bay. Coastal Kayaking paddles the waters on the eastern portion of MDI, from Bar Harbor to Frenchman Bay.

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Journey to Swan’s Island & Swim in the Baird’s Quarry Pool

Swan’s Island lies six miles southwest of MDI, and features 7,000 acres of coastal scenery, and one of the most stunning harbors in Maine. Home to roughly 350 year-round residents, visiting Swan’s Island feels a bit like stepping back in time. One of the secret spots in Swan’s Island is a swimming hole at the site of Baird’s Quary, an old granite quarry. The water is deliciously crisp, and the views of the Swan’s Island Harbor and Burnt Coast Lighthouse aren’t bad either. Swan’s Island is accessible via a ferry that departs Bass Harbor several times daily. It’s about a 30-minute trip, and schedules are posted online at maine.gov/mdot/ferry/swansisland. You can buy tickets at the ferry terminal in Bass Harbor

7.

Watch the Sunset and Slurp Some Oysters at Bass Harbor Light

In the mood to watch the oranges and magentas of the fading sun dip into the Atlantic in a classic New England setting? Head on over to Bass Harbor Head Light, and relish in the beauty of MDI’s only lighthouse. When you arrive at the lighthouse, you will see a path in plain sight on the right side. This will take you next to the tower and lighthouse viewing area where you have a great vantage point to see a panoramic view of the harbor and the islands in the distance. On the left side of the buildings is a path that appears to go into the tree canopy. Take this path then, bear right. This will take you to a stairway that follows down the front face of the cliff, eventually arriving at a prime spot for capturing a pictures of the lighthouse. And if you bought some oysters from a local farmer, this is a perfect local for shucking and slurping a few, and marveling at the sunset.

How To Get To MDI

So I’ve sold you on coming to MDI. The question is, how do I get there?

If you live within driving distance (whatever that means for you) – I would drive. You’ll have the flexibility to go where you want and when. And you’ll save money on renting a car.

But what if you don’t live within driving distance to Bar Harbor? Well depending on your budget, you can fly to Bar Harbor, or you could fly to Bangor, and then rent a car (this is what many travelers do).

Portland Airport has connections with major cities in the eastern USA. Boston (the closest airport with many international flights) is under two hours’ drive from Portland. If you’re starting at Portland Airport, pick up a rental car and make a coastal roadtrip out of it. Head northeast along the coast, crossing estuaries and rivers for 78 miles, to get to Rockland. Enjoy the ceaselessly lovely scenery, small towns and roadside lobster shacks as you skip ten miles further north to Camden. From there, you’ll hug the shoreline of Penobscot Bay for 72 miles more as it turns to forest, until you make your way to MDI.

How To Get Around MDI

Okay so now that you’re in Bar Harbor – how can you get around? Let me introduce you to the Island Explorer. This free shuttle operates June to October and has routes all over Mount Desert Island. If you are heading to any of the major stops, check the routes to see if you can catch the shuttle.

I’ve rented a bike for a whole week and I’ve also just rented one for the day. So the decision is yours. But if you are going to do it for the week, I would get it your first or second day there. Here are some spots offering bike rentals on MDI:

And then lastly, if you have your own car and enter Acadia National Park, you’ll need a pass. You can buy one pass for the entire car and it’ll be good for a whole week. You can also buy it online before you get there too.

Best Time To Visit

Downeast Maine is beautiful any time of year, but my personal favorite time to visit is in the Fall. With kids back in school, the summer crowds drop dramatically. The two best things about visiting the Downeast Region in the fall— (1) the trees have all begun to change colors and are unspeakably gorgeous, and (2) the oysters are starting to get plumper and sweeter in anticipation of winter. Most restaurants outside of Portland remain open through Columbus Day, but I recommend inquiring with specific places as to whether they are operating on a seasonal schedule.

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