Leon’s Fine Poultry and Oyster Shop
Oysters, Fried Chicken, and Frozen G & T’s: Welcome to Leon’s, the King of Southern Oyster Shacks
I stumbled upon Leon’s Fine Poultry and Oyster Shop in the middle of a one-hundred-and-something degree afternoon in July. It was one of those days where the humidity hung in the air, and the sweat pooled on your lower back, and seeped through your clothes. It was the kind of afternoon that absolutely required a dozen chilled salty oysters and a frozen gin and tonic.
Leon’s is eclectic in all the right ways. It has all the vibes of a New Orleans-inspired chic, dressed-up Upper King Street neighborhood oyster dive. In fact, Leon’s used to be an old body shop that belonged to Leon Ravenel – a businessman that served Charleston residents. The shop preserves much of that history, complete with functioning garage doors, concrete floors, and beautiful exposed rafters.
Since its opening in 2015, Leon’s has quickly racked up its share of accolades, including mentions in Bon Appétit, Conde Nast Traveler, and even the New York Times. While the charming décor may have sealed the deal for some of these kudos, it is Leon’s delectable menu that is the true gem.
The Food
The menu at Leon’s is a perfect blend of East Coast-style fried fish, and New Orleans and Carolina-inspired spicy poultry. There is even some Asian persuasion in some of the appetizer and salad selections (the refreshing Marinated Cucumber Salad, made with sesame oil, shiso, and champagne vinegar was a perfect complement to the spicy chicken).
Whoever would have thought fresh oysters and fried chicken would have gone together perfectly? The fried chicken platter was a knockout. The chicken is brined, tossed in Old Bay, and then fried in lard. For those who maybe don’t want to decimate an entire chicken, Leon’s also has a half chicken and 2-piece options.
The fried oyster roll was also a delightful find. I am sometimes hesitant to try fried oyster rolls, as so many places over-bread and deep-fry the crap out of these things, which leaves them tasting like nothing more than fried dough. Leon’s treated their oysters with care in frying them lightly so the oysters retained their juiciness with a hint of their brine.
If you’re looking for some lighter fare, I would definitely recommend the crispy clam wraps (served lettuce-wrap style with some pickled vegetables and spicy mayo), or even – dare I say it – a salad. Yes, the salads at Leon’s are not the typical afterthought at a fried chicken joint. The Siam Salad is a thai-style delight, with a light soy-ginger-sesame seed-style dressing that made the shredded cabbage pop.
The Booze
We live in a world where the promise of a Rosé Slushie or a Frozen G&T will get almost anyone in the door. And man, were these good. The Frozen G&T was everything I needed to beat the humidity, and was a perfect pairing with the fresh oysters. Leon’s also has great selection of American beers (and Miller High Life ponies!), and nicely priced glasses of wine. Leon’s beverage menu does not disappoint.
The Oysters
Leon’s Oyster Shop got its name for a reason – the Oyster selection here boasts a fantastic rotating array of East Coast beauties. I know some people who will only eat the local oysters when traveling, but I prefer to do some side-by-side tasting comparisons of local oysters versus their New England counterparts to truly taste the distinctions.
In the recent decade, a number of new oyster farms have sprung up in Virginia and the Carolina’s. Instead of growing oysters in brackish bays as had once been popular, more and more southern Oyster farmers are marinating their oysters in the brine of the Atlantic. Because the ocean temperatures in the South are understandably warmer than in the North, Southern oysters grow intensely salty in a much shorter period of time than their Northern counterparts. Oysters in the South are often described as having “bright-brine” and an “ocean finish” – compare this with oysters from Mass. and Maine that oftentimes have an onslaught of brine with a “sweet” or “earthy finish.” This key difference in taste has to do with the fact that (1) most Southern oysters grow faster than Northern oysters because of the warmer waters, and (2) most Southern oysters are grown higher in the water column, whereas Northern oysters need to be bottom-planted for over-wintering, which oftentimes gives Northern oysters some minerality and sweetness.
Whatever your preference – why choose when you can taste the full spectrum of Eastern oysters at Leon’s. Here is a sampling of their selections:
Masonboro Salts: North Carolina: Medium-cupped beauties with a briny, buttery umami start, and a clean oceanic finish. These bivalves are grown in floating cages in suspended French vinyl mesh baskets high in the water column where oysters can feed on phytoplankton rich water by Sound Side Oyster Farms in Masonboro Sound.
Bulls Bay Blades: South Carolina: Bulls Bay is a bay surrounded by salt marshes just up the coast from Charleston. The bay is just a few feet deep, the marshes are extensive, and they are wide open to the Atlantic, making for a very slim and salty oyster.
Sea Clouds: South Carolina: Small shelled, briny babies with a creamy finish farmed by Barrier Island Oyster Company. These lovelies are grown entirely in floating cages just a few thousands yards from the open ocean, which subjects them to nearly constant wind and wave action. Because these oysters are grown high in the water column (as opposed to being bottom-planted or grown-out in cages), they have a distinct brine and fresh ocean finish.
Virginia Wilds: Harvested from the James River. The Southern counterpart to the Maine Wild Dam. I found these to have a subtle brine with a sweet, oceanic finish.
The Oyster Shed
If you happen to find yourself at Leon’s, take a cone of their soft serve ice cream (with sprinkles) and ask the staff if you can check out The Oyster Shed. Situated in the back of Leon’s, The Oyster Shed is a gorgeous little hideaway with soaring cathedral ceilings, exposed brick, its own cobblestone patio, and a custom-built community-style farm table. This little spot is a perfect place for a Bachelorette Oyster Bash or a Birthday Fried Chicken Extravaganza.
