Reviving the Riches of Yaquina Bay: The Story of Oregon Oyster Farms
Oregon Oyster Farm owner, Xin Liu, showing off one of the farm’s “medium” sized oysters.
Nestled along the scenic coast of Oregon, Yaquina Bay offers more than just picturesque views—it is the heartland of oyster cultivation. Once dubbed "Oysterville" in the 1800s due to its flourishing native Olympia oysters, the Yaquina River was a cornerstone of the oyster trade, with shipping merchants from San Francisco frequently harvesting its bounty. Yet, prosperity led to peril as the Olympias were overharvested to near extinction, to cater to the insatiable appetites of the California market. Amid this backdrop, Oregon Oyster Farms, established in 1907 by the Wachsmuth family, began restoring native oyster beds, striving to preserve Yaquina Bay's legacy as an oyster haven. Oregon Oyster Farms' current oyster, Xin Liu, has continued the Wachsmuth's commitment to restoration and sustainability.
On a crisp morning, as the Yaquina River shimmered under the rising sun, I arrived at Oregon Oyster Farms, and was greeted by Xin Liu—a figure renowned in Newport and ingratiated in its maritime heritage. Known affectionately as "Liu," he welcomed me with an enthusiastic handshake. "It is so good to meet an oyster lover from Maine," he beamed, "come, I'll show you everything we do."
Xin Liu's story begins thousands of miles away, in the bustling coastal city of Qingdao, China, where his fascination with marine science first took root. In 1992, Liu journeyed to the United States, to pursue a PhD in Marine Science at the Oregon State University under the tutelage of renowned experts like Anja Robinson, the "Oyster Lady" who was revolutionizing the growing of Kumamotos on the West Coast. However, it was the hands-on work in the waters of Yaquina Bay that captivated his heart and redirected his path from academia to aquaculture.
"One of my academic pursuits was restoring the area's native Olympia oyster population," Liu shared, as we walked along the waterfront, "I spent a lot of time on the Yaquina, observing areas where the Olympias were repopulating, and I quickly fell in love with oyster farming."
The exterior of the Oregon Oyster Farm store along the edge of the Yaquina River.
In 1997, Liu and several partners purchased Oregon Oyster Farms, a sprawling 560-acre farm along the Yaquina River. Liu's passion for sustainable farming practices led him to spearhead the revival of the Olympia oyster, a local species once nearly-decimated by over-harvesting.
"I was excited to farm in the Yaquina Bay area, because I knew from my research that the native Olympia oysters naturally reproduce there," Liu shared. For the next 19 years, Liu and his team have been slowly replenishing the Olympias in the waters of the Yaquina. He has fostered a partnership with Oregon State, the Wetlands Conservancy, and the local Native Siletz Tribe to continue restoration efforts. A model of restraint, Liu aims to show that running a profitable shellfish company is not mutually exclusive with managing the ocean's resources responsibly. Liu sells his Olympias to only one distributor in Portland, Oregon, and preserves the rest for restoration efforts.
"It has been a challenge in restoring the population," explained Liu, noting it takes Olympias two-and-a-half to three years to grow roughly the size of a half-dollar.
While Liu and his team are continuing the mission of the Wachsmuth family, and preserving the Olympias, Liu gushed about how well his prized kumomotos were growing on his farm.
The Yaquina's cool, nutrient-rich waters create an ideal nursery for Kumamotos, known for their creamy texture and subtle brininess. Liu was the first in Oregon to introduce these gems to the raw bars of Portland, and pre-pandemic, his oysters were a fixture at iconic spots like the Grand Central Oyster Bar, receiving shipments of up to 150 dozen Kumamotos weekly.
Liu explained that Oregon Oyster Farms is uniquely positioned to be a great location for growing Kumamoto oysters—the water temperature remains under 70F, it has a good tidal flux, and salinity around 28 parts per thousand. Liu shared that he always harvests his kumamotos at high tide to maintain a consistent level of salinity.
While Liu is proud of the farm's Olympia and Kumamoto populations, his biggest moneymaker, by far, is his crop of Pacific oysters.
Liu lead me down to the vertical farm, where large Pacific oysters, serving as cultch for smaller Pacifics, are threaded onto ropes and hang suspended from a floating dock. There, the oysters grow in clusters, and are either separated or shucked prior to sale.
The vertical line grow-out sites for Liu’s single and cluster Pacific oyster sets.
Liu’s vertical lines for his single and cluster Pacific oyster sets.
Demand for Liu's oysters stretches from the local to the global, with a notable portion of his harvest satisfying the thriving markets in Asia and New York City. In Taiwan, where hot pot culture reigns supreme, Liu’s jumbo oysters are a coveted ingredient, treasured for their ability to transform a simple broth into a rich, seafood-laden feast. Liu estimates that his oysters account for nearly 60% of the oysters imported to Taiwan. In fact, Liu's "special" oysters, measuring in at 10+ inches, are grown and sold exclusively for the Taiwan market.
The Tom-Bee slowly making its way to the docks to offload its morning harvest.
The hydraulic set-up on the Tom-Bee.
As Liu and I were making our way up the gangway from the vertical grow site, the farm's prized dredger, the Tom Bee, was slowly chugging its way in from the farm's distant bottom sites with a massive cage of oysters in tote. Liu and I watched, quietly, as the cage was slowly lifted by hydraulics off of the dredger, and into the water several times for a quick rinse, before making a sluggish ascent to the dock. Liu unhooked the pulley, opened the cage, and plucked out a massive oyster nearly the size of his head.
A size comparison of what Liu affectionately refers to as a “medium” oyster.
"Guess what size these are?" Liu asked playfully, knowing I would get the answer wrong.
"Um, jumbo?" I guessed.
"Medium," Liu responded with a laugh, as his team came to whisk away the massive oyster cage to be sorted.
Ever since purchasing Oregon Oyster Farms, Liu has committed his efforts to growing and supporting his workforce. Oregon Oyster Farms currently employs over 25 employees. In fact, Liu shared he recently purchased a house for several of his employees so they could live near the farm and has created a 401k for all of his full-time employees.
After noting that many of Liu's employees have been with him for over 20 years, I asked him what he believed made someone a successful aquaculturist.
"You cannot learn it from a textbook," Liu shared. "You cannot learn how to farm oysters by reading it in a book or taking a class. You have to learn through experience and some mistakes."
Liu's commitment extends beyond the waters of Yaquina Bay. Ten years ago, he expanded his empire by acquiring Pearl Point Oyster Company with Mark Wiegardt of Whiskey Creek Shellfish Hatchery, securing a 72-acre bed in the pristine waters of Netarts Bay. After Wiegardt passed earlier this year, Liu took Weigardt's 23-year-old son under his wing, and is mentoring him in sustainable practices and the enduring success of the aquaculture industry.
Liu’s favorite way to prepare his oysters - microwaved with a dollop of butter and cajun seasoning.
Liu escorted me to the farm's shucking room to try a sampling of Pacific, Kumamoto, and Olympia oysters. Plus, Liu was insistent that I try his favorite creation—microwaved oysters with a dollop of butter and Cajun seasoning. Liu was right, the meat-to-shell ratio of the Kumamotos was utterly unbelievable, and the tiny Olympias were filled to the brim with their renowned briny, nutty flavor. As Liu and I sat devouring oysters at 10:00 am, he shared with me his favorite Newport spots.
For those lucky enough to visit Newport, Liu recommends a tour of the local eateries that feature local-caught seafood. Some of Liu's favorite spots? The nearby South Beach Fish Market, the Crab Kettle, the Adobe, Luna Sea Fish House, Fish Tales Cafe, Georgies Beachside Grill, Clearwater, Local Ocean, and the Newport Chowder Bowl. Liu shared that his dedication to his customers has been what has allowed his local business to thrive. Liu proudly provides hand-deliveries to local restaurants, seven days a week.
"To me, the best part about my business is providing fresh local seafood and excellent service," Liu shared as we relished the fresh oysters. His dedication to the community and the environment resonates through every aspect of his work, from his careful cultivation practices to his support of local businesses, making Xin Liu not just a businessman but a pillar of sustainable aquaculture in Oregon.
After over-indulging in oysters, I said farewell to Liu and his team to go in search of Liu's favorite lunch spot—South Beach Fish Market. As I made my way to the car, I could hear Liu's team laughing in the distance, as they carried in another cage of massive oysters to be cleaned, sorted, and sent on their international voyage to Taiwan.
Whether through his revival of native species or his innovation in oyster farming, Xin Liu's influence on Oregon's culinary and ecological landscape is profound, marking him as a visionary steward of both community and nature.
Oregon Oyster Farm employee, Miguel, preparing to send over roughly 30,000 oysters harvested from the farm’s bottom site earlier in the morning.